Hickory Nut Gorge: Home To One Of North Carolina’s Most Beautiful Parks & Two Charming Towns

Hickory Nut Gorge, Chimney Rock

The Hickory Nut Gorge is a 20,000 acre, 14-mile long canyon that cuts a steep pass through the Blue Ridge escarpment. It is abundant in undisturbed forests, waterfalls, and granite cliffs…and is located just a short drive from Asheville, Black Mountain and Hendersonville. This easily accessible outdoor mecca is steeped in history and is a prominent recreational destination for rock climbers, hikers, campers, mountain bikers, and family picnics along the banks of the Rocky Broad River.

In this episode we focus in and take a closer look at Chimney Rock and Lake Lure and we discover how the rugged beauty of the area so captivated a physician from Missouri that it shaped the rest of his life, and is a large reason why you and I can explore so much protected land nearly 120 years later.

Join us we take a brief trip through the history of Hickory Nut Gorge, take a stroll through the modern-day Chimney Rock Village, and learn about great recreational destinations in the Gorge and areas surrounding Lake Lure.

HISTORY

Chimney Rock is undoubtedly one of the crown jewels of the Gorge. It is a monolith rising some 300’ feet from the surrounding mountainside and overlooks Hickory Nut Gorge and Lake Lure . The American Indians of the region used it as a landmark for many years…and locals claim that Chimney Rock also served as a marker on an Underground Railroad line moving slaves northward through the Bat Cave area.

The first group of predominantly Scotch—Irish settlers arrived in Hickory Nut Gorge in 1670, and with the increasing popularity of the area, the population continued to grow. Between 1830-1860 the Hickory Nut Turnpike through Hickory Nut Gap was extensively used as a toll road for stagecoach travel supporting Tri-weekly round trips from Lincolnton to Asheville via Rutherfordton. It wasn’t long before churches, taverns and other stagecoach stops starting springing up.

In 1880, Jerome B Freeman purchased 400 acres of land in the Gorge which included Chimney Rock. Five years later J.B. Freeman opened Chimney Rock to the public for the first time.

Following a tuberculosis diagnosis, Dr. Lucius B Morse, a physician from Missouri, was advised to seek a more healthful climate. Hearing that this whole area was thought to be a healing place, Dr. Morse made his way to the thermal belt of Western North Carolina, and immediately fell in love with the rugged beauty of Chimney Rock and the surrounding area.

Legend has it that he was so intrigued with Chimney Rock area that he paid a man 25 cents to take him by donkey to the top. Standing at the summit of Chimney Rock, surrounded by panoramic vistas, some historians say this is when he conceived his dream for not only a Park but of the development of Lake Lure. More on that in a minute.

In 1902 Morse paid J.B. Freeman $5,000 for 64 acres of Chimney Rock Mountain, including the Chimney and cliffs.

In those days, tourists arrived on horseback or in carriages from the railroad stations of Hendersonville and Rutherfordton. Dr. Morse and his brothers built a bridge across the Rocky Broad River and started a three-mile narrow dirt road up to the base of the Chimney. 

In 1916, the first development of Chimney Rock as a tourist attraction started to take shape. Morse built a stairway to the top and a series of trails leading to nearby points of interest, including Hickory Nut Falls and other features like Pulpit Rock and Sky Lounge (originally the site of the Cliffdwellers Inn where Morse and his wife lived for years). In 1949, the elevator was installed to make Chimney Rock more accessible.

Just exactly when Morse conceived the idea of creating Lake Lure is unclear, but what is clear is that in 1922, his idea to create a lake and the possibility of a year-round resort was catching on. With overwhelming support, and after sharing his idea with a Rutherford Co businessman, Morse formed Chimney Rock Mountains, Inc., purchased 8,000 acres of land, and began the construction of a dam and powerhouse. The dam was completed in 1926, and Lake Lure was born. Luckily, at the same time, the state began to build a new highway through the gorge, and with the opening of the Lake Lure Inn in 1927, the Chimney Rock-Lake Lure region became one of the state’s major tourist areas.

MODERN-DAY

I still remember the first time I ever visited the Hickory Nut Gorge area over 25 years ago. We were staying in Montreat at my brother in laws house. It had been snowing for a few days and we took Number 9 from Black Mountain into the Gorge. As someone who had recently started whitewater kayaking, I remember being in awe at the swollen Rocky Broad River and then was blown away as we approached the Village perched directly along the banks of this boulder strewn raging river.

Now, 25 years later I get to travel through the Gorge quite frequently and I am equally in awe every time I visit. It just never gets old to me. As a bonus…the approach into Chimney Rock is beautiful regardless of what road leads you there. If you come in from the east on Hwy 74 or Hwy 9 you get glimpses of a few fingers of the lake, the beach at Lake Lure, the Lake Lure Inn & Spa that opened in 1927, views of Rumbling Bald and the iconic monolith that is Chimney Rock, as you enter the eastern end of the Village.

At the western end in Bat Cave, 74 from Fairview…64 from Hendersonville…and 9 from Black Mountain essentially all intersect. You are treated with scenic views of the Rocky Broad (which is beautiful at any flow) and pass by historic buildings like the Esmeralda Inn, which first opened in 1891 and is still open today. As you approach the western end of the Village you’ll see Hickory Nut Falls, the 400’ waterfall splashing off the granite wall, and finally the entrance to Chimney Rock State Park located in the middle of the village.

The actual Village of Chimney Rock is less than a half mile long but don’t be fooled. You could easily spend an entire day, if not longer depending on your interests, in this fun little village located directly below the famous vistas of Chimney Rock Mountain.

This little mountain town just has a really cool vibe. Main Street is packed with a variety of shops ranging from local artisans, outdoor grear, and quirky souvenirs, AND restaurants like Riverwatch (definitely opt for the outside dining overlooking the river if you can), Medina’s Village Bistro, Old Rock Cafe, ice cream stands, gem mining, really COOL vintage motels, the area’s first brewery (Hickory Nut Brewery – and the way…I challenge you to find a better setting… with seating within feet of the river, and towering views of Chimney Rock, it just can’t be beat), Burntshirt Vineyards recently opened a Tasting Room, there are coffee shops, and the boardwalk behind the main street shops along the Rocky Broad River. If you are a regular listener of the podcast you may recall in the episode with Destination by Design that they worked with Chimney Rock to improve and expand the Boardwalk. That construction is currently underway and I can’t wait to enjoy the finished product.

This quaint & quirky village, the friendliness of the Villagers, the permanence of the towering mountains; and a state park with an entrance right on Main Street make Chimney Rock Village a town like no other.

During the early spring when pandemic shutdowns affected even National Forests and the Blue Ridge Parkway, this area became a respite for me personally, and I think its when I really began to truly appreciate this gem of a place…I would take the short drive from the house just to spend time relaxing on the banks of the Broad River, work on my photography skills, walk along the River Boardwalk, and check out trailheads to new local trails. I think it’s also when I began to appreciate just how much there actually was to do in this area, and that there is NO WAY I could fit it all into a weekend visit.

RECREATIONAL DESTINATIONS & OPPORTUNITIES

Last month my wife and I celebrated our 29^th wedding anniversary and our friends over at Cabin Hosts graciously gifted us a weekend at their Lure of the Woods cabin in Lake Lure. As I mentioned before, every time I leave this area there is a longing to return because you just can’t do it all in a weekend. So, I had a pretty full adventure agenda. As in turns out, the cabin was so sweet that we only explored for a day and spent the next day hanging out at the cabin.

You can’t talk about recreational destinations and opportunities without first talking about Chimney Rock State Park. Now, for most modern-day visitors, when I mention Chimney Rock State Park, its natural to think of the large stone entrance in the heart of the Village…but that didn’t come until later. I’ll include a link in the shownotes for anyone who wants to do a deeper dive into the history of the Park, but for now we’ll just focus on the highlights.

We owe a huge debt of gratitude to conservation groups and landowners who have had a mutual goal over the years to preserve and protect as much of the land as possible.

In 2004, the Hickory Nut Gorge Partnership was formed. It included the Foothills Conservancy of North Carolina, Carolina Mountain Lands Conservancy, and The Nature Conservancy. They worked with Friends of Hickory Nut Gorge, NC State Parks and elected officials to secure support for a new state park to help permanently protect the rich biodiversity of the scenic Hickory Nut Gorge.

In 2005, the N.C. General Assembly authorized a new state park in the scenic Hickory Nut Gorge area. Later that year, the first tract of land to form the state park was purchased which was the dramatic 1,568-acre landscape known as World’s Edge to the south of Chimney Rock. The park was called the Hickory Nut Gorge State Park.

At about the same time, the Morse family was were interested in selling and protecting the park. The Hickory Nut Gorge Partnership, with assistance from The Conservation Fund and NC State Parks, purchased the 996-acre park in 2007, and with Chimney Rock as its focal point, Hickory Nut Gorge State Park’s name was officially changed to Chimney Rock State Park.

The park continued to grow with The Nature Conservancy’s transfer of land including Blue Rock Mountain, Round Top Mountain, Shumont Mountain and Rumbling Bald Mountain. In 2008, the Rumbling Bald Access opened resulting in state park boundaries extending on both sides of Chimney Rock Village and now includes three predominate sections of the park; Chimney Rock access, Eagle Rock access, and Rumbling Bald access. Chimney Rock is the only section that is accessible from the Village.

Within the Chimney Rock section of the Park there are a bunch of opportunities for all ages and ability levels to explore the park. From the Great Woodland Adventure which is amazing for families with young children where you can check out Twelve discovery stations along the half-mile loop to the heart pumping Skyline trail that will test anyone’s fitness level but rewards you with huge a scenic payoff.

Now, there is so much to see and do in this section that I could spend an entire hour talking about what there is to see and do, and how to navigate the park. But, in the interest of time I’m going to offer a short description of the trails.

There are 4 basic trails. The Outcroppings Trail, Hickory Nut Falls Trail, Exclamation Point Trail, and the Skyline Trail, and the Four Seasons Trail. I mentioned the Four Seasons Trail last because the trailhead is actually half way up the mountain, soon after you pass through the ticket plaza. I’ll come back to that one in a quick second.

We’ll break this into two parts. One – Hike to Hickory Nut Falls and Two – Hike to what we’ll call the Summit, and well, maybe a third part…which is the elevator to the Sky Lounge leaving you a short climb to the top of Chimney Rock via a set of stairs.

If you hike to the Hickory Nut Falls you basically have three options: Take the Four Seasons Trail from the first major parking lot and you will embark on a 6/10 of a mile heart pumper where you’ll gain 400’ in elevation. You will intersect with the Hickory Nut Falls trail which is an “easy”, wide, gently rolling trail to the bottom of the 404-ft. Hickory Nut Falls waterfall. It’s shaded, so it’s a great option on a really hot day. You can also take the Hickory Nut Falls trail near the top parking lot, or from Gneiss Cave there is a set of stairs leading to the Hickory Nut Falls trail.

The summit hike starts at the end of the very top parking area its really a series of linked trails – The Outcroppings Trail, which leads to the Exclamation Point Trail, where you can continue on to the Skyline Trail.

The Skyline trail is really more like a strenuous stairmaster workout climbing up 500 steps. But all ages and fitness levels can enjoy the challenge because there are many places to stop along the way like the Subway which tunnels around and through granite rock, Vista Rock, the Grotto and Pulpit Rock where you can often see rock climbers scaling vertical rock wall. The Outcroppings trail reopened in 2015 after being closed since 2008.

The top of the Outcroppings Trails perches you on top of Chimney Rock, with panoramic views to Hickory Nut Gorge and Lake Lure.

From there you can continue along the Exclamation Point Trail which begins as a series of steps until it ultimately levels off and you can walk along the cliff. Devils Head and the Opera Box are two great spots with amazing views along this trail. 

The parks newest trail, the Skyline Trail, begins at Exclamation Point at 2,480’. Considering the elevation at the parks entrance is just a little over 1,000’ you can imagine how majestic this steep canyon view is. The newest Skyline trail opened in 2017 and actually replaces the former clifftop trail that closed in 2008 due to safety concerns. As you continue along this trail you’ll gradually increase in elevation and come to Peregrine’s Point at about 2,640’ in elevation, and ultimately the trail will lead to the top of Hickory Nut Falls. All in all, this is a 3.5 mile round-trip from the parking lot to the top end of the Skyline Trail. Plan on about 2-3 hrs for this hike, and longer if you plan on long stops and photographs. This is why I say you could spend an entire day in the Park taking in all there is to see and do.

Earlier we talked about the park having three access points. So when you’re Back down in the Village, hang a right heading towards Lake Lure and just before you cross the Flowering Bridge, make a left on Boys Camp Road. In a little over a mile you will come to the Rumbling Bald Access Parking Area.

This area is extremely popular with climbers and a perfect place to try your hand at bouldering. The 1.6 mile moderately trafficked loop trail offers a number of activity options and is accessible year round. The trail leads you to the base of Rumbling Bald. When you’re standing at the beach at Lake Lure you can see the towering cliffs of Rumbling Bald Mountain.

Eagle Rock access is located in Chimney Rock State Park’s northernmost boundary 9.6 miles from the Village via NC-9 and Shumont Road. The elevation at Eagle Rock stands at 3,400’ providing outstanding views as far north as Mt. Mitchell and Grandfather Mountain.

Thanks to the vision and efforts by Conserving Carolina, Weed Patch Mountain Trail provides the first public access to Eagle Rock offering for the first time, exciting backcountry adventures for hikers, mountain bikers, and rock climbers. From Eagle Rock, the 8.6 mile trail traverses rugged mountain terrain eastward through a remote wilderness area in the Town of Lake Lure’s Buffalo Creek Park.

So, as you can tell, there is a lot more to Chimney Rock State Park than meets the eye. A LOT more!

Let’s stay with Weed Patch trail for a minute though, because it continues the story of how conservation has preserved and protected this area. Allow me to read a small section from the Conserving Carolina website:

“Conserving Carolina partnered with the Town of Lake Lure to protect over 1,500 acres at Buffalo Creek Park—making it one of the largest local parks in North Carolina. This land was slated for development, but during the recession, we were able to purchase the property out of bankruptcy. This allowed us to save a stunning tract of backcountry wilderness and open it to the public for recreation!

 

Conserving Carolina protected the land forever with a conservation easement and sold it to the town for a public park. We designed and built the 8.6 mile trail to high standards of sustainability, in order to prevent erosion, minimize needs for future maintenance, and enhance people’s experience on the trail.”

 

“The Weed Patch Mountain Trail is poised to become a crown jewel of outdoor recreation in the Hickory Nut Gorge, teeming with adventures for hikers, mountain bikers, and rock climbers,” says Peter Barr, trails coordinator for Conserving Carolina and project manager of the new trail.

KUDOS to Conserving Carolina – I really hope to have them on the podcast in the future to highlight and celebrate all of their conservation work and partnerships that create beautiful recreational destinations like Buffalo Creek.

I highly encourage you to check out their website, conservingcarolina.org, to learn more about another new trail system that is being developed in the western edge of the Hickory Nut Gorge.

SCENIC DRIVES

There’s nothing better than a scenic drive through the North Carolina mountains but GPS is not always available and accurate in parts of our mountains so I always recommend a few things to give you peace of mind on your scenic drive: 1) Always have at least a ½ tank of gas, 2) an emergency kit with snacks, water, jackets a flashlight with fresh batteries and blankets, just to name a few. 3) Have a hard copy of a map, printed directions, or a downloadable map/directions in case you don’t have GPS, 4) Enjoy the scenery and be ok with getting “intentionally lost.” Those are some of my favorite off-map memories.

Here are a few of my favorite scenic drives near Chimney Rock Village and Lake Lure:

Lakeview Driving Tour

From the Lake Lure Welcome Center 2932 Memorial Highway, Lake Lure, NC

Turn LEFT onto Memorial Highway (U.S.Hwys 64/74A/9) > Go 4.8 miles

Turn LEFT onto Buffalo Shoals Road > Go 4.5 miles POINTS OF INTEREST: Lake Lure Dam

Turn LEFT onto Buffalo Creek Road

Take an immediate LEFT into Rumbling Bald Resort (pit stop) and ask the guard at the gate for directions to Lakeview Restaurant, Legends Bar & Grill or the Ice Cream Cabana.

Turn LEFT out of Rumbling Bald Resort onto Buffalo Creek Road > Go 4 miles

Turn RIGHT on Cedar Creek Road > Go 4 miles POINTS OF INTEREST: The pond at Cedar Creek Stables and Vandele Farms

Turn LEFT into Cedar Creek Stables (pit stop) Mill Spring

Turn LEFT onto Cedar Creek Road leaving the stables > Go 1.7 miles

Turn RIGHT at the stop sign onto Bills Creek Road

Turn RIGHT onto U.S. 64/74A/Memorial Highway to complete the loop back to the Welcome Center

Credit: Lake Lure, Chimney Rock and The Blue Ridge Foothills

NC- 9 to Black Mountain (20mi)

From downtown Chimney Rock, Follow US-64 W/US-74 ALT W

Turn right onto NC-9 N

NC-9 will pass under I-40 and drop you right into downtown Black Mountain. You can spend an entire day strolling, eating, and shopping in downtown Black Mountain.

Dupont State Forest Waterfalls (31.4mi)

From downtown Chimney Rock, Follow US-64 W/US-74 ALT W

Left on US-64/Chimney Rock Road towards Hendersonville 14.7mi

Turn left onto N Church St 0.1mi

Continue straight to stay on N Church St 0.4 mi

Turn right onto Kanuga Rd 3.9 mi

Continue onto Crab Creek Rd 7.1 mi

Turn left onto Dupont Rd 1.2 mi

Continue onto Staton Rd 1.2 mi

Lakeview Driving Tour

From the Lake Lure Welcome Center 2932 Memorial Highway, Lake Lure, NC

Turn LEFT onto Memorial Highway (U.S.Hwys 64/74A/9) > Go 4.8 miles

Turn LEFT onto Buffalo Shoals Road > Go 4.5 miles POINTS OF INTEREST: Lake Lure Dam

Turn LEFT onto Buffalo Creek Road

Take an immediate LEFT into Rumbling Bald Resort (pit stop) and ask the guard at the gate for directions to Lakeview Restaurant, Legends Bar & Grill or the Ice Cream Cabana.

Turn LEFT out of Rumbling Bald Resort onto Buffalo Creek Road > Go 4 miles

Turn RIGHT on Cedar Creek Road > Go 4 miles POINTS OF INTEREST: The pond at Cedar Creek Stables and Vandele Farms

Turn LEFT into Cedar Creek Stables (pit stop) Mill Spring

Turn LEFT onto Cedar Creek Road leaving the stables > Go 1.7 miles

Turn RIGHT at the stop sign onto Bills Creek Road

Turn RIGHT onto U.S. 64/74A/Memorial Highway to complete the loop back to the Welcome Center

Credit: Lake Lure, Chimney Rock and The Blue Ridge Foothills

Blue Ridge Parkway & Waterfall Tour (98mi round trip / Full Day)

From downtown Chimney Rock, Follow US-64 W/US-74 ALT W (Check Gas – Fill up before you get on the BRP)

Turn right onto the Blue Ridge Parkway entrance

Turn right at the stop sign onto the Blue Ridge Parkway

After Mile Marker #411, take EXIT for U.S. Hwy 276S & Stay STRAIGHT at the first stop light outside of Pisgah National Forest to get onto U.S. Hwy 64E

Turn RIGHT onto Memorial Highway (U.S. Hwys 9/64/74A) to complete the loop back to Chimney Rock

NOTE: This drive is FULL of scenic mountain overlooks, roadside waterfalls, and you will pass the Pisgah Inn on the BRP. This is an EXCEPTIONAL drive but allow for a full day. Sections of the BRP also close in the winter due to inclement weather. Check before you go.

Lake Lure

Home to on-location filming for movies such as Last of the Mohicans, Dirty Dancing, Thunder Road and Firestarter, you have to believe with a lake and setting as beautiful as Lake Lure, adventure awaits you there too. Just driving around the lake has the tendency to lower the blood pressure and help you unwind and relax.

In the springtime, walk the flowering bridge, and town center walkway along the lake and take in the spectacular views. Relax at the beach, rent a paddle board, or sign up for an informative and relaxing tour around the lake with Lake Lure Tours. If you’re up for a more active adventure, call on none other than Lake Lure Adventure Company for all of your watersport adventures.

It’s easy to see why there is more than meets the eye with this amazingly beautiful mountain town. It truly is a town for all seasons, and there is no shortage of things to do, and places to see as long as you’re up for an adventure. And, this is definitely an area for all ages to enjoy.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this episode as we focused in on the history of Hickory Nut Gorge, took a stroll through the modern-day Chimney Rock Village, and learned about great recreational destinations in the Gorge and areas surrounding Lake Lure. I also hope you’ll join us for future episodes where we’ll continue exploring Blue Ridge Mountain Communities.

Well, until we meet again, I encourage you to wander far…but explore local.